Category Archives for "Garden"
The question of what do rabbits eat? is a topic raised by most new owners of these pets. Ideally any prospective new owners should do a little homework and preparation before actually buying a pet rabbit. It’s a bit like buying a car before learning to drive. However, it pretty basic information. As an animal, a rabbit’s food requirements are like any other herbivore or plant eater. Therefore the obvious plan is to feed your bunny pal as close to their natural diet as possible. That means to provide the kinds of plants and foods it would normally find in the wild.
Rabbits are foragers. They will hunt around for whatever plants herbs and fruits that grow in and around their natural habitat and this is precisely what you should provide. While most people are sensible some pet owners become too orientated on treating their pet like a member of the family. This is especially true of dog and cats owners. While there is nothing wrong with loving your pet, that is actually quite correct, going overboard and giving an animal a lot of human food and treats is mainly wrong. The occasional treat of the right kind for your pet is fine but not over indulging.
The correct kinds of food regarding what rabbits eat are as follows. Grass and especially hay are the main bulk of a healthy diet for a rabbit. This is mostly what they will eat in the wild and should be 70% of what you provide. Hay provides fibre and roughage for good digestion and chewing it gives the rabbit necessary grinding action to keep their teeth from overgrowing.
Our pets also requires vitamins and minerals to maintain their health. In the wild certain herbs and plants would be consumed for this. The kind of herbs you can use are such as: mint, parsley, coriander, basil and dill.
Certain fruits are beneficial too and rabbits love them. Apples, bananas, peach, pears, grapes, most soft fruits and berries are fine. For larger types of fruit like melon etc., ensure the pips or stones are removed to avoid choking hazards. While fruit to an extent is beloved by rabbits and eaten in the wild too much of some kinds may cause diarrhoea so caution should be observed. It should also be noted that fruit contains natural sugars so over indulging your pets can lead to weight gain too.
Many of us are familiar with the cartoon character of Bugs Bunny munching on a carrot. Naturally that is normal and rabbits do love carrots which are loaded with goodness. The majority of green veg is acceptable when wondering what do rabbits eat, but some kinds like iceberg lettuce are not recommended as they don’t give nutritional value and may cause diarrhoea. Most other forms of lettuce however are fine. Roots vegetables are generally avoided for pet rabbits as they are loaded with starch which again leads to weight gain and would unlikely be on the rabbits normal meal plan.
Dried rabbit food and pellets are widely available at pet food stores and many supermarkets. These are specially developed for rabbits to provide a good range of nutrition and many of the essential vitamins and minerals needed for health. There is nothing wrong with feeding your pet exclusively on this food however it would be pretty boring day after day and assuming you are devoted to the fella you would be inclined I’m sure to give him some variety and add in any of the previously mention foodstuffs.
Finally there are the specially treats. Don’t give your pets the kind of treats meant for the owner such and sweets, chocolate and the like. Your pet cannot digests that sort of food and is at least likely to cause upset stomachs for them. Stick to the specially manufactured treats that can be bought from pet shops which are formulated especially for pets.
This is one of THE most vital things you must provide for your pet. Make sure your bunny pal has fresh clean water to drink everyday. Using a gravity-feed water bottle that attaches to the rabbit cage is normally the best way to ensure a regular supply of drnking water.
Rabbits need but little exercise when mature, the young do require it, and ideal conditions are found in rabbit runs if they are not too crowded.
These may be of almost any length, one approximately 4×20 feet being sufficient to accommodate eight or ten young rabbits until they are from four to five months old.
These runs should be made of one-inch wire mesh and have a top of the same material to keep out cats and other enemies. This top may be hinged to allow easy access on the part of the keeper.
If the ends of the runs are also hinged, forming doors, cleaning will be greatly facilitated.
Should the runs be outside, the bottom must also be of wire mesh covered with from four to six inches of soil. This prevents the animals from digging out.
The soil should be changed frequently, otherwise it may become impregnated with coccidiosis germs.
Outside runs should have an auxiliary wire fence, about three or four feet high to keep dogs and other would-be intruders at a distance from the animals.
Or these runs may be inside, and a board floor that can be cleaned frequently is better than one of,soil. There should be side boards twelve or fourteen inches high placed at the bottom of sides and ends to ward off draughts. This suggestion holds for both inside and outside runs.
We believe that sawdust, which is a good absorbent, makes the best litter for the Ixrttom of the hutch or indoor run. If sawdust is not obtainable, use straw. Straw over sawdust is excellent. Nest boxes should be kept filled with clean straw. Every effort must be made to keep the hutch or run clean and dry.
Three hutches like the one described alxwe, in a city backyard or in the country, if occupied by good breeders, are of sufficient capacity to keep a moderate sized family supplied with fresh meat a large part of the year.
The principal feature in some sanitary hutches is found in the fact that there are two bottoms, the upper being made of slats placed just far enough apart to allow droppings to fall through. The lower floor is sloping, insuring the draining away of the urine, and means are afforded for thoroughly cleaning this lower floor.
Our experience has demonstrated that great care must be used to see that the spaces between slats be not too wide, for if they are, young rabbits may get a foot and part of a leg below the floor and so firmly fastened thatthe frightened animal will break or dislocate its limb in its struggles to free itself.
Each hutch should be provided with a hay rack, either made of wood (which mischievous rabbits are apt to gnaw) or wire so constructed as not to allow young rabbits to climb into it. This rack should be placed on a side of the hutch at such a height that young rabbits as well as their mother can reach its contents.
Rabbit hutches are cage-like housing that are used to shelter rabbits. Rabbit hutches and their design are particularly important because while rabbits are fine in both indoors and outdoors, they are not fit to handle extreme weather conditions.
Rabbit hutches become especially important during the cold weather. Rabbits are safer indoors during this time, but many rabbits are left in outdoor hutches for one reason or another. This is not necessarily bad, because as long as the rabbit hutch is equipped to provide the rabbit shelter and warmth, there’s nothing to worry about.
Rabbits are fine with cold weather as long as they are sheltered from the wind and they are kept dry. If the rabbit is really sensitive to the cold, there are still more things that an owner can provide for them in their hutches.
Cold-weather hutches are don’t need to be equipped with any electrical devices to become good shelter for the rabbit, though a light bulb with low wattage set in a corner of the hutch would help greatly.
A gable refers to the triangular shape on of the wall that is produced by the slopes of a roof. If you look at some houses that you pass by, you will notice that some designs of the houses have it that there are triangular extension from the wall perpendicular to the roof that is also roofed itself.
There are many kinds of gables, from the small unobtrusive ones to the large gables that also work as an attic or a whole room. Naturally, the gables that apply to human sized houses also apply to smaller structures.
They are not only used in houses however, but in other smaller structures, like pens, bird houses, and rabbit hutches. Anything resembling a house can have a gable – with rabbit hutches, for instance, gables are common decorations with them because gables add design to the hutch.
Sometimes, if these gables are big enough, they can become additional space or the attic space for the rabbits. With many rabbit hutches, the gable can become a part of the second floor, which is connected to the first floor of the hutch with a ramp.
Gabled rabbit hutches are usually for outdoor use, since indoor rabbit hutches do not really need shingled roofs and the like. The gables may act as additional wind buffers for the hutch and the rabbit inside, which is useful because drafts are lethal to rabbits and are actually one of the leading causes of rabbit death.
Gables on rabbit hutches make the whole thing more appealing to look at, and some may even match the design of the house itself. They also make the rabbit hutch look like a part of the house, and not a particularly large cage sitting around outside the house.
Rabbit hutches refer to the cages where rabbits are kept, though rabbit hutches can also accomodate chickens and other small animals. Rabbit hutches usually use materials like wood and wire mesh for its structure, though there are some that are made of metal and hard plastic.
In general, rabbit hutches have floors that are made of either wooden boards, wire mesh, or a combination of both materials. The walls are the same, though there is usually at least one wall that is completely made of wire mesh to give the animal inside ventilation.
Outdoor hutches have shingled roofs or other kinds of roofs to protect the rabbits from the weather. Indoor hutches are usually fine with being just a box-type hutch, and there is no longer any need for fancy or functional roofs.
The important thing to remember about designing a rabbit hutch is that it is important to consider the rabbit’s comfort. Rabbit hutches should be big enough to allow the rabbit to hop around several paces, stretch out, and stand on their hind legs.
The rabbit should be able to recline without any of its sides hitting the sides of the wall. The rabbit should also be able to stand on its hind legs without its ears brushing the ceiling of the hutch. The hutch’s length depends on how far your rabbit can hop – the hutch should be long enough that the rabbit won’t bump into the end of the hutch when it hops three or four times.
Generally, rabbit hutches are made bigger than what the rabbit requires for when the rabbit grows larger in size in the future. The rabbit hutch would be wasted if the rabbit outgrows it. The floor should also have boards on it, so that the rabbit will be able to walk around or lie down without becoming sore from all the wire mesh.
Well, this is an example of one of the many kinds of hydroponic planters available if you are thinking of doing your gardening indoors. Hydroponics is a latin word meaning “working water” simply because of the fact that plants can be grown easily, effortlessly and most importantly, without the use of soil (no mess, perfect!). Not only are we fast approaching the coldest time of the year and I can’t really see myself knees to ground gardening in minus degree, British weather, but furthermore my flat is quite small and sadly I don’t have a garden. So what are the options for people in my situation then? I began to search for ways I could grow my own plants and one day (even more abitiously) grow my own vegetables. After all, everyone knows that plants and flowers can brighten up any living space instantly, with lovely fresh smells and vibrant colors.
Before I moved into my own flat, I wasn’t aware of hydroponics plant growing techniques until a friend mentioned it, it was all quite new to me.
I set about finding out as much information about hydroponics as possible (i feel I could probably lecture on the topic now!). Using google to search for the word ‘hydroponics’ brought up a lot of retailer websites as well as informational websites like Wikipedia. Initially, I was told it was quite an easy thing to do but I didn’t want to take the risk of it all going wrong so I decided on purchasing a starter kit which will include all the essentials to help me grow my own plants in as little as 8 weeks so this was great news. I just couldn’t wait to have my own plants and to see my friends and families faces when I informed them that I grew them myself, without the predictable mess of soil (i later found out they had to see it to believe it!).
Fret not, however, you can actually purchase some on various websites like eBay or homebase and even in everyday supermarkets. However, I personally found that the hydroponics websites give you a lot more information and also ideas about nutrients which help to make the already fast growing process, even faster! As I mentioned before, the average time it takes to grow plants using this system is about 8 weeks (which is 3 times faster than conventional growing techniques) and before you know it, you’ll have to start thinking about where to put your new plants. Furthermore, as hydroponics only requires water, some people actually make use of their old fish tanks to store their plants, and if arranged well it can look rather beautiful. I personally have made use of my ever growing collection of beautiful vases.